Wednesday, July 22, 2009
Winter along the Cape Point Route....
I am a summer kind of girl…I adore the headiness of sun, sand, sea and mountains. I also love winter. There is something about the sound of rain falling on the roof, cuddling up around a cozy fireplace, drinking hot chocolate or sipping a fine red wine. I love winter until I get a severe case of cabin fever! If like me, you suffer from either F.O.M.O (Fear of Missing Out) or Cabin Fever syndrome, you may be anxious about visiting Cape Town in winter. Do not despair – symptomatic treatment is available from your Cape Point Route doctor.
So you have a list of things you have to see in Cape Town. V&A Waterfront is easy to tick off the list for shopping and dining, an overcast day is ideal for popping out for a grape escape in the winelands to sample some splendid vintages. Hopefully you’ve been lucky enough to get some insight into South Africa’s history by visiting Robben Island. It’s likely that you strolled through the proteas at Kirstenbosch while you waited for a gap in the cloud cover to dash up Table Mountain for one of the best views on the planet. Did you squeeze in a peninsula day tour and get the obligatory snapshot of the lighthouse and the signpost showing how far away from home you are? Did you do the waddle on the boardwalk in Simon’s Town to get some seriously cute pictures of the penguins before heading back to the city saying you’ve seen Cape Town? Congratulations, now let’s treat those syndromes!
Light up your Life and discover the lighthouses on the Cape Point Route. Did you know that the lighthouse at Cape Point has the most powerful beam in the country? Walk past the lighthouse at the top, stroll along a windy dramatic path to the second lighthouse further down. That’s it! In Simon’s Town you will find the only lighthouse in South Africa to be built on a rock! Remember that oil rig looking thing near the penguins? That is Roman Rock lighthouse. For the best views in Cape Town head to Slangkoppunt Lighthouse in Kommetjie, the tallest cast iron lighthouse in the country. Walk to the top with the lighthouse keeper see the inner workings of a lighthouse and take in the 360 degree views of the back of Table Mountain, Hout Bay Sentinel, Chapman’s Peak Drive, Cape Point Nature Reserve and of course the Atlantic Ocean! There is a seriously good chance of whale spotting from the top too!
Whale spotting: Winter is whale season after all! Southern Right Whales, Humpback Whales and Brydes whales are the most common. I have the luxury of calling myself a whale snob due to close up almost-daily sightings. Land based whale watching from the entire coastline is sensational with Chapman’s Peak Drive & Cape Point being amongst the most spectacular spots to observe these giants of the sea.
Whale watching boat trips will get you even closer to these giant mammals, where you can see the callosities on their heads. There is a strong possibility of seeing dolphins, seals and penguins. Alternatives are to do a high speed boat trip to Cape Point; an exhilarating adventure to view the sheer cliffs of Cape Point from the sea. Boat trips head to Duiker Island in Hout Bay or to Seal Island in False Bay –both home to thousands of Cape Fur Seals and the latter is breeding ground of the great white shark.
Shark cage diving: The movie Jaws portrayed the Great White Shark as an evil killing machine. Despite extensive research these huge primeval creatures are little understood, yet remain a fascinating attraction for human mortals. Experience the grace, power and magic of these creatures on a shark cage diving (or viewing!) trip from Simon’s Town. Best experienced in winter, when the sharks in False Bay have been known to breach in a spectacular display by leaping out of the water for their prey. If you’re not brave enough to dive with great whites, pop into the Save Our Seas centre in Kalk Bay and find out more about sharks and the marine life of South Africa
Aqua Action: Cape Town is well known for its’ surfing, boasting 40 breaks within an hour of the city centre. Beginners still head for Muizenberg, thrill seekers head for the reefs off Kommetjie and Scarborough and lunatics head for Dungeons off Hout Bay (particularly in winter when there are seriously big waves). Winter is the best time to learn as the NW winds bring superb conditions to False Bay. Kitsesurfing – why not combine your surfing skills, with some kiting? Lessons & courses are available at Muizenberg beach to get you started with this adrenaline filled sport. If you already have the basics, why not go with an expert to some of the less frequented kitesurfing spots like Witsands and get a real slice of the action! Grab a paddle. Sea kayaking trips are often best undertaken during the Cape Town winter, when the False Bay waters are calmer. Encounter penguins, whales, seals and dolphins from your safe stable sea craft – no previous experience is necessary! Snorkel with Seals: This is one of the most accessible ways to interact with the coastal wildlife. Big eyed seals will play cheerfully with you as you snorkel (in a wetsuit!) and they often imitate your somersaults in the water. They are as curious about you as you are about them.
Scuba Dive: The Coastline of the Cape Point Route is littered with shipwrecks making it a treasure chest for scuba divers. Discover the best of the Cape of Storms by meandering through mysterious kelp forests and coral reefs with sea plants and fish that are only accessible to divers. If you have FOMO why not take a course and get your open water certificate?
Saddle Up: ride a horse along the seemingly endless Noordhoek Beach. Cantering across white sand, your horses’ hooves slicing up the water of the shoreline. I bet you didn’t know you can do a camel ride through the fynbos too? Whilst in the saddle – try riding an old Dutch bicycle (recycled from the canals of Amsterdam!) through Masiphumelele township. I have always been slightly suspicious of township tours, so was delighted and surprised to pedal my way through Masi with some locals – meeting their friends, their shops, their schools, their homes and their traditions. This was welcoming, interactive and a whole lot of fun.
Retail therapy: If all else fails go shopping! The Cape Point Route has a distinctive lack of Chain stores and franchises making your shopping a unique and personal experience. Kalk Bay is one of the hot spots with everything from Seventeenth Century sea maps to coffee sets and everything inbetween, including a fabulous bookstore for post activity relaxing! There is also a superb second hand bookstore at the Foodbarn Deli at Noordhoek Farm Village – combined with a steaming mug of coffee and some deli delights.
Whilst at Noordhoek Farm Village, visit some of the shops & galleries and definitely make a plan to eat there – all 3 restaurants are superb. Dinner in a converted barn with a world acclaimed chef is probably the finest food for best value worldwide! You just can’t beat the relaxed style with classy fare at Café Roux and if a pub vibe is what you are craving – make sure you hang out at the Toad in the Village. Owned by former Rugby Springbok Bob Skinstad – sport, and in particular rugby, gets prime viewing on the big screen. Both Café Roux and the Toad have real fireplaces! With so much to do in the village and surrounds, why not stay a few nights at De Noordhoek Hotel.
One of the things I love about winter is being able to get out into the natural environment without dying of hypothermia, and then warming up in a comfortable, cozy corner with a fireplace. If there is great food and some live South African music playing so much the better! Some of my personal fireplace picks: The Cape Farmhouse, which is literally in an old farmhouse with roaring log fire. Great for tea or lunch or during the winter concerts. Rioja in Kommetjie is a gem – situated in Solole Nature Reserve, the homely atmosphere is enhanced by an excellent wine list, two fireplaces and a third on the way! In Simon’s Town you can pop out of a winter dive and straight into Boulders Beach Restaurant – superb Pacific Rim cuisine, a warm sherry and you guessed it… a log fire! The Meeting Place will warm you up after a paddle to the penguins! Kalk Bay hot spots with my criteria are Harbour House and Polana, both have great views over the harbour and located right on the ocean!
So the much feared Cabin Fever syndrome in the Cape of Storms with never ending rain and an average winter daily temperature of 18°C (not so bad really?) can be easily treated with hiking, biking or diving. F.O.M.O-itis can be tackled by sea kayaking or boat trips and if in doubt there is plenty of red wine or warm beverages.
Call the Cape Point Route central bookings office for ideas of where to go, what to see, how to get there, where to eat or where to stay. Tel: +27 (0)21 782 9356, Email info@capepointroute.co.za or visit their website www.capepointroute.co.za
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